Started my advanced diving course and dived to 98 feet
Dived at two shipwrecks
Hung out with new friends
Thoughts on the place:
Koh Tao. Damn. This place is beautiful. Tiny but beautiful. I am immensely glad I decided to go and sort out my scuba license here because it unlocked a new island for me that I will be going back to happily. I fucking loved this spot and the diving instructors at DPM Diving were phenomenal teachers to the point where I actually now feel comfortable diving even at 98 feet or in a shipwreck. All I can say is this: Get to Koh Tao and dive!
Tips:
Use DPM Diving, they get you in the water fast and safely. The other schools focus on pool days which are just a waste of time
Scooters are unnecessary if you’re staying right on Sai Ri Beach and not planning on moving much beyond the dive schools
The staff at Lomprayah Ferries ticket office on the island are great and very accommodating if you want to leave early to catch a flight in Koh Samui
Surfed a little (waves were a bit sparse in October)
Relaxed on the beach
Hung out with kitty cats
Thoughts on the place:
God Nai Harn is lovely. I’d been to Phuket before but never to this little spot and I am so glad that I did this time. The beach was divine, the local food was lovely, and this whole experience was the closest I’ve ever come to just enjoying living on a beach. Loved it and highly recommend.
Tips:
Stay right near Nai Harn beach so you can walk or ride to it quickly
Pick up a bike from Dr Moto, no passport deposit needed!
Explored Marina Bay Sands and watched the light show at the Supertrees
Ate at Lau Pa Sat hawker market
Went to Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen (craved English food)
Visited the ArtScience Museum
Thoughts on the place:
I used to live in a place called Media City which was a bit of corporate owned land just outside Manchester, where the BBC and ITV were now based. It was pure concrete and chain brands, not much soul. Singapore gets the reputation as being the same, but amongst the big bank buildings I saw glimpses of a real soul; a first date happening at a cafe while the new potential couple were clearly on lunch from their big corporate jobs – the smiles over the table and gradual drift to pure body language – it was delightful to see; the skateboarders with a speaker blasting reminding the locals that punk ain’t dead and that counterculture is unkillable; and an afternoon with a friend who took me to a vibrant hawker centre for a meal and a people-watch. Interesting place, for a certain kind of person.
Tips:
Stay near Marina Bay, not in Marina Bay Sands. The view of the hotel is better than the view from it.
Hawker centres are brilliant but not super forgiving if you hesitate. Know what you want before ordering.
It is extremely expensive for anything imported, which is nearly everything.
A friend and I have a long-running line that every non-teacher expat in Bangkok lives essentially the same life here. Aside from the Soi Cowboy-haunting old lechers—but they’re usually on their way to Pattaya and only stopping here for a day or two—Bangkok lady drinks stretch the pension fund a little too far for their liking.
So what does this “same life” look like?
You wake up around 9am, 8:30 at a push, but 10 if you’re not a morning person. Maybe you’re of the motivated type and get up for a little journalling—a good habit I’ve adopted. Then it’s off to the condo gym. Sure, the very large among us may head to Muscle Factory a few days a week and the influencer types may go to The Racquet Club, though the condo gym sees most of the action.
7/11 time. Grab a protein shake, the bottled water that you forgot to buy yesterday, and perhaps a little treat—fruit if you’re a good boy, and toasties or a chocolate and banana muffin if not.
You order your breakfast—yes, you have a kitchen, and yes, you do have eggs remaining—but FoodPanda (RIP) or Grab will bring you anything you ask for in about 20 minutes. Enough time to shower.
After the healthy-ish meal you ordered, it’s time for some emails. Head to a café nearby—somewhere in Thonglor probably, or maybe Ekkamai. You arrive, take an iced Americano—at 120 baht you reckon this secures you a few hours of work time—it shouldn’t, but it does.
You put the small Apple screen down, pick up the slightly bigger Apple screen and stare into the void while waiting for the coffee to work its magic. Fire a few messages out, knock up a mini to-do list, and get to it. Once the Americano turns to exclusively murky-coloured ice water, you’ll know it’s time to leave.
Now you’ve got some options: dinner somewhere local and a pint with a friend, or do you stick to your actual day-to-day life and head home, ordering another meal, then chilling + scrolling for the remainder of the evening.
That’s the routine.
But it wasn’t always like that. It wasn’t always as consistent or stable.
It was nuts.
When you first arrive here, everything is new. There are motorbikes literally everywhere, cars driving with their own interpretation of road safety, people paying for things with a QR code payment system you’ve never seen before despite your “travels around the world” (to Europe and Australia, throw Japan in there for spice), full-spec tuk-tuks flying past you, proper street food vendors with scents that are sometimes divine and sometimes purely caustic.
There’s monks and temples, and hookers and strip clubs, and students who seem to be perpetually graduating with a new photoshoot every 10 minutes. New buildings springing up every day and new events to fill every night. And it’s all just here, existing around you.
When you first arrive here, you can feel that wave of intensity, but you don’t understand how to move with it yet. At the start, it’s a little too much, and your early steps will involve a lot of trial-by-alcohol at Khao San Road, while you learn to navigate taking a Bolt vs Grab, or figuring out what is a decent price for rent to avoid being ripped off, or deciding where to eat so you can give up on just spamming McDonalds and KFC (Zabbs are still a delicacy in this house, however).
Every street corner is a new photo-op, and every rooftop bar is some magical new experience. Each local restaurant seems like it was in Bourdain’s dreams, and you get to visit them!
And the cost! When you compare it to the West, you think it’s all practically free!
It’s hard not to be in awe of how you can walk the countless luxury malls eating cheaply and bounce around the city on £1 or £2 bike taxis that’ll weave in and out of traffic at high speeds to near-teleport you to a whole new area—and then head to meet a bunch of new people at an event.
And then bounce from bar to club, to banana and Nutella roti on the street, back to your luxury-ish condo with a view of the city—for a drunken balcony yap session and hopefully enough sleep for tomorrow’s shenanigans… and a little work, of course.
This honeymoon period is immersion, and it is chaos. It’s fun as hell, and you love it, but you still have no idea how to make sense of it.
So give it a year…
Hell, give it 6 months, and you’ll start to see how the city flows—and learn how to flow with it.
You know that scene in The Matrix where Neo can finally see the world as code and understand it? Or when Bradley Cooper takes the NZT in Limitless and suddenly he sees things for how they are?
That’s you, once you figure this place out.
It’ll start small. You’ll know where to stand on the BTS to optimally avoid all the masses of people that’ll pile on. You’ll know which restaurants are actually consistently good to order from, and how to time your order in the app while you’re out so that the food arrives at your condo at the same time as you—a true Bangkok convenience, all to save a 2-minute ride in an elevator.
I should say “lift” in British English, but I’ve lived here a little too long, and British-isms are slightly harder for everyone to understand, so American English becomes an easier default setting.
Anyway, over time this city starts to make a little sense.
You become aware of the best nights to visit certain events based on the type of people you reckon will be there on a Tuesday vs a Friday evening. Motorbikes on the sidewalk [pavement, my dear chums] no longer faze you—they’re just a mild convenience to you and everyone else here. You roughly know how to dodge them now anyway.
The Thai attitude of “sabai sabai” or “relax relax” has become ingrained in your system, and your newfound calm mostly prevents any major stress building up about these things.
“The ability to let that which does not matter, truly slide.”
This “sabai sabai” way of living has also infiltrated your formerly rigorous insistence on being early or on time for things. Bangkok seems to operate on a sort of “island time”, whereby people arrive when they’re ready as opposed to when you all agreed.
For the British, this is comically difficult to comprehend at first, and will result in stress—especially when you arranged a maintenance person to fix your aircon and they don’t come at the agreed 2pm, and instead meander over at around 3:30.
Once the aircon starts working again and the stress abates, you realise it may be easier just to move with this system rather than against it—you can’t fight waves but you can surf them.
Gradually, you’ll start to do the same as these people.
You’ll start being—dare I say it—late for things! Not one and a half hours late, but late nonetheless—10 minutes here, 15 minutes there. The first few times it happens, you may blame Grab for not teleporting a bike taxi to you immediately, or the elevators in your condo for stopping on every one of the 40 floors.
But eventually, you’ll become accustomed to being late—just a little late—and you’ll start to kinda like it. Or at least not feel horrific pangs of anxiety when it does inevitably happen.
Sabai sabai, baby.
The more you understand this place, the less wild it feels, of course.
And without that high level of stimulation and the dopamine hit that goes with it, you can start to drift into a mindset that all of this is totally normal: your low-cost luxury condo, super-fast but cheap internet, incredible food on every street, instant motorbike taxis, open and accepting communities, extreme levels of personal safety, the view from your bedroom over this mega-city, and communities that are open, accepting, and non-judgemental.
But it’s not normal. This stuff does not exist everywhere. This city is unique.
So you mustn’t forget to be grateful to live in a place that doesn’t ask you to be anyone else. Maybe you don’t look out your windows so much anymore to admire the view—but when you do, it’s a nice reminder that this place is still fucking gorgeous.
Well, that’s the post pretty much over, so here’s my final word on the place for now:
Your whirlwind romance with Bangkok has now changed into a more consistent love. It may not be wild and there may be routine and consistency, but it is still meaningful, and there’s always new places to discover and new things happening.
You’ve picked the one place where you feel you can explore who you are and grow in any direction you choose.
Gratitude was never my strong point however, so I’ll remind myself:
Max, if you aren’t careful, you’ll forget how good you’ve got it here. Don’t.
Quotes I’m vibing with rn:
The wound is where the light enters – Rumi
I go down with the water, and come up with the water, I do not struggle against it – Zhuang Zhou
“You’ve changed”, “We’re supposed to :)” – Some lovely artist, hard to attribute
Hua Hin with @aliceinwonderland8912 Staying at the wonderful @marrakeshhuahin hotel 🙂 Honestly my favourite hotel in Thailand now. This place is so lovely! #traveltiktok#couplegoals#coupletravel
Finished reading Dracula while drinking a mojito and laying by the sea – immaculate vibes
Thoughts on the place:
Hua Hin is seriously beautiful and the Marrakesh Hua Hin Resort & Spa may be the nicest hotel I’ve stayed in a long time… I was pretty injured after the surfing in Sri Lanka so spent a lot of time lounging on the massive balcony with my foot raised, and still the vibe was so fucking lovely. I was like a lizard just soaking the heat up. Loved it. Hua Hin itself… It’s small but worth a visit if you’re specifically just planning to chill at the beach and eat some lovely (but pricey) seafood. Imo it’s good for couples and families.
Tips:
Marrakesh Hua Hin Resort & Spa is excellent.
The city is framed around the beach and one long road, stay on the beachfront, not over the road!
Seoul is kinda like if an English city was nice and insanely safe with a lot of very well dressed people. The DMZ is a little underwhelming as you can no longer go right to the border line after some American guy (I think) jumped it… Worth a visit and honestly probably a sick place to live!
The hotel was decent but comes at a premium…
Tips:
Uber does work well there despite what reddit may say
Google maps does not work there, download Kakao Map!
Pattaya often gets a rep as being pretty seedy. That’s not particularly fair. The Walking Street shouldn’t entirely define what is actually a very lovely city by the sea. If you want seedy, you’ll find it but in this place you can also find incredibly pretty beaches that aren’t rammed full of people.
The hotel was delightful with a great sea view and it’s own private beach. One of the best places I’ve stayed.
Tips:
Stay in South Pattaya near Jomtien or anywhere on the cliff for a genuinely beautiful view and phenomenal vibe
Spend your time away from the city centre to see what the city is really like
Picked eggs from chickens and even held the chickens (Who were possibly the softest chickens I’ve ever felt so you can tell they’re cared for)
Thoughts on the place:
If Khao Yai isn’t on your places to go when in Thailand, you’re missing out. This place is Thailand’s mountainous wine country and it is fucking lovely. So green, so lush, and just incredible to walk around. I love it here.
Also STAY AT THIS HOTEL. You get a mini villa, get to pick your own eggs + vegetables for breakfast on their working farm, and hang out with the neighbouring dogs!
Tips:
Stay at La Cocotte Villa & Farm (if you’re a couple).
Visit a vineyard here and try Thai wine, the white wine is lovely!
Whenever you’re a little tired of Bangkok (very rare for me, I fucking love it here), Chiang Mai can offer a kinda mini-city break where things are a bit more laid back and bit more old school. It’s nice. It’s kinda small, but it’s nice if that’s you like.
Shangri-La Chiang Mai however was immaculate. The view from the room was of the mountains and, damn, waking up to that was wonderful. Big fan, highly recommend.
Tips:
The food at the markets here is high quality, dig in! Get a Nutella banana roti!
Head to the Grand Canyon water park for a mint day out!
Zoe in Yellow is the place to begin any wild night here.
At takeoff during flights I used to listen to Frank Sinatra’s “My Way” and I’d time it so that the crescendo happens right at the moment we take off and start to gain altitude. Why? It added to the intensity of the experience that’s for sure but mainly I did it because I knew without a shadow of doubt that the plane would crash and I would die. I thought “if it’s going to crash and if this is it for me then at least I get to listen to a fucking good song while it happens”.
A lot of young people assume they’re going to die in plane crashes or freak car accidents or some other relatively unlikely event. I think it’s narcissistic of us. We assume we’re the one who this extremely rare event will befall, odds be damned. Personally I see newspaper headlines in my mind when planes get a little turbulent, they torment me with every specific bit of knowledge I can remember about the flight and then mention the number who died and I see my name on the page… And then once again I load up Sinatra and accept my unlikely fate, which is still yet to meet me.
It’s only recently that I’ve stopped this habit, however I will admit that “That’s life” was playing as the plane ascended today – not on purpose… Promise.
I’ve stopped because… Well I think it’s because I don’t think I’m going to die in some freak accident anymore. Maybe my narcissism is finally abating, though writing about this suggests otherwise.
Regardless, I don’t think I’m going to die anymore in one of these abstract and unlikely ways, in all likelihood I’ll probably go out the way most people do: meandering into a slower old age and gradually seeing my body slip into decline and eventually succumbing to my frailty. Boring but statistically pretty likely.
I wonder if age and experience caused me to change my perspective. I’ve taken a lot of flights and not died… Yet.
As far as I can tell, the people who’ve lived more than me, in years at least, don’t suffer this same anxiety that fate will target them with some rare life-ending event. Perhaps because they’ve lived for long enough to know that the unlikely to happen is even more unlikely to happen to them.
Anyway, my plane’s about to land and I have music to queue up so for now I’ll take a leaf out of their book and embrace this philosophy: the worst case is unlikely and things will, probably, be okay and if not, well, that’s life.
Quotes I’m vibing with rn:
Gifts of fortune are not to be regarded as your own. What fortune gives, it may also take away – Seneca
Sympathy for all is tyranny for thee, my good neighbour – Friedrich Nietzsche
He was bored, that’s all, bored, like most people; so he created from scratch a life of complications and drama for himself. Something’s got to happen that’s the explanation for most human undertakings. – Albert Camus